It continues to be absolutely amazing how little is known about the beautiful scenery of Zambia's far-flung provinces, especially about Northern Province's 'unknown' waterfalls. 'Unknown' because they are either only a slash on a map (geographers' symbol for waterfall or rapid) or heard about them by word of mouth. We certainly would have never seen or even known about the Ngozya, Keso or Sanzye Falls if someone from that area hadn't told us about them. And these are not minor falls! As the photos below show, they could be tourist attractions in their own right. If only they weren't so far away. To get there, consult the Mbala 1:250,000 (SC-36-1) map.
To start with, we looked at the Lunzua Falls (near Mpulungu), because we had heard rumours that the 1.6km/200m drop between top falls and power station contained more/bigger falls. We found one other fall (which we called Lunzua II), but nothing bigger than the top falls. There may well have been more/other falls, but no-one knew where they were and, despite walking the length of the drop, we couldn't find them.
From Lunzua we travelled on the RD2 to Chitimbwe and Kambole (the missions marked on the map folded in 1974) where we 'discovered' the Ngozya Falls (a bridal-veil fall on the Chika R.) and the superb Ngozya View Point (5km walk from Kambole, with views of the Yendwe Valley, Lufubu R. and Nkamba Bay) which even has remnants of an old camp ground. We were told of Kambole Falls on the Kambole R., but didn't feel like a 3-hr or so hike (people's time/distance estimates are notoriously vague).
From here we went to Kavuna Falls which turned out to be a piddling little rapid (why it is marked on all maps is a true mystery). Only 700m upstream, though, we found the Keso Falls, not very high but rather splendid in width and volume of water going over. There are also the Mwepwe Falls, c. 7km (or 2-hr hike) further upstream, but these we too left for others to explore. Leaving the scenic Keso Falls (where, just upstream, used to be the dry-season crossing of the 'road' up from Nkamba Bay/Sumbu Park), we went in search of the Chaka and Bulalo Falls. Alas, we only got as far as Nsangu, 2km short of Chungu (and 22.5km from both falls), where the 'road' disappeared altogether and turned into a bicycle track/footpath. Although this is supposed to be the main road from Mbala to Mporokoro, it has vanished completely due to the bridges over the Lubaleshi and Lufubu having collapsed ages ago. We couldn't find any motorable path at all, therefore left the Chaka and Bulalo Falls' area for more intrepid hikers to explore.
Back we went to Mbala/Mpulungu to see if we could get close to the Izi River and its Izimponda Falls (only noted on the National Heritage map). We bumped along a most adventurous 'road' to something called Tanganyika Lodge at Mbete Bay, the place nearest these falls, hired a boat and got as close as we could to have a good look (from here it's still a 2-hr climb to the bottom of the falls which we didn't do).
We were told of further falls near Sumbu (Chisala and Luvu Falls), but it was too far for us to get there. Instead we had a quick look at the Kalambo Falls, explored the unknown Sanzye Falls (Mr Abraham, the caretaker of Kalambo, will guide - it's a 1-hr drive), and stayed at the new Isanga Bay Lodge (very pleasant) before starting towards Serenje and the allegedly nearby Munte River falls. Well, the turned out to be the Nkulumashiba Falls on the same-named river on Mr Steve's coffee farm, 45km north of Serenje. The falls are 15m high but thoroughly dammed up and just a trickle. We got a photo of these falls in the rains, but ugly irrigation pipes ruin the view. And then we went home.
The roads generally were not too bad, except for the descent into Yengwe Valley (very rocky), and for river-crossings (most of the bridges were impassable but a ford could always be found).
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GPS: Ngozya Viewpoint: 08 44.284S 030 44.673E 1470m (on 250,000 Mbala map)
Comment: the falls are visible from this Viewpoint - c. 5km walk from
Kambole Village (old LMS mission station, now in ruins) - guide needed.
The view from Ngozye is splendid, overlooking Yendwe Valley, Lufubu R. with
L. Tanganyika/Nkamba Bay in the distance. Distance from view to falls c. 2km
Kambole Falls on Kambole R. c. 2-3 hrs walk W of Kambole Village (were told of these falls by villagers/headmistress Kabwe)
Kavuna Falls on Lufubu R. (on all maps) 700m from Keso falls
GPS: 08.40.855 S 30.35.758 E
Comment: it's just a miserable rapid though there's a pleasant short walk/path leading up to it.
Keso Falls on Lufubu R. (on no map)
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GPS: 08 41.183S 030 35.665E 824m
Comment: nice scenic falls near Keso Village, camping possible. Upstream used to be the crossing of the road up from Nkamba Bay/Sumbu NP, road now impassable
Mwepwe Falls on Lufubu R. (on Kasama aeronautical map only) c. 7km W of Keso falls (c. 2-hr walk)
GPS: to be calculated from map coords
Comment: in Nov 2003 a group of 7 Ndola people were said to have
camped at Keso for 3 days and gone twice to Mwepwe with guide Boniface.
Chaka Falls on Lufubu R. (double falls?)
hiking only 08.47.032 S 30.21.934 E
AND
Bulalo Falls on Lufubu R. hiking only 08.56.712 S 30.16.576 E
Comment: (on all maps) the closest we got to these two was 22.4 and 22.6km respectively. The 'road' to Mporokoso, the access road, is motorable to Nsangu/Chungu but has disappeared completely thereafter (bicycle track only) due to bridges over the Lubaleshi and Lufubu having collapsed more than 10 years ago.
Izimponda Falls near Mpulungu/Mbala on Izi R. (on Nat. Heritage map only) off Mbete Bay near Tanganyika Lodge.
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| Izimponda Falls seen in the far distance | Izi River Mouth |
GPS: 08 48.541S o31 02.349E 775m 08.00 8.7.04
Comment: GPS reading for mouth of Izi R. The falls are visible from the lake only, a 1/2hr boat ride from Tanganyika Bay Lodge (located 8km W of Mporokoso - very modest - K60,000 pp no food), and can be approached from Mbete or Kapako Village in a 2hr climb (or so we were told). No car/road access.
Lunzua I Falls GPS: 08 55.617S 031 09.494E 1415m 3.7.04
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| Lunzua R. above the main falls | Lunzua R. rapids above the falls |
Lunzua II Falls downstream from Lunzua I, inbetween top falls and Power Station
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| Lunzua II below the main falls | Lunzua II scenic view |
GPS: 08 55.318S 031 09.693E 1276m 3.7.04
Comment:
turnoff to Lunzua Power Station at 08 53.117S 031 11.251E 1224m
length of drop 1.6km (altitude difference 210m) camping possible at top falls,
use footpath to Power Station, listen for falls' noise, climb into gorge to see
them.
Where to stay: Accommodation in Mpulungu: Kasakalawi
Lodge, 3km W of town,
Pisembo camping (next to K. Lodge), Nkupi Lodge E of harbour near Niamkolo
Church
Muzinga Stream falls on Chisala R. near Ndole Bay in Sumbu NP, access by boat only).(cf photo of Quentin's sketch)
Chisala Falls on Chisala R. (same as above?) near Sumbu
Luvu Falls on Chisala R ?? near Sumbu
Mafinga Falls on
headwater of S.Luangwa R. near Mafinga Hills on Tanzanian border;
access: Malawi border road up from Lundazi, or E of Isoka (photos/GPS data)
Comment: "Getting to the falls in the Mafingas is a bit of a mission. We started
our canoe safari
from the Isoka-Muyombe road bridge but before that we
did a side trip to the Mafingas. To access them from the Zambian side
you need to get on to the Stevenson road (in a terrible state) and then
turn off south to Mpangala (quite a good track, about 20-30kms, 2 years
ago), which is situated on the Luangwa river. You have to park your car
and walk from there - about 20-25kms. We saw several little falls
walking upstream, the most attractive and impressive being those that I
photographed and sent to you. We eventually could go no further due to
time constraints and VERY difficult terrain - thickets, steep and
dangerous. I suspect there were more spectacular falls further up. One
day I'll take the microlight there..." writes John Coppinger in 2001
Nkulumashiba Falls on Nkulumashiba/Munte R. near Serenje.
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| Nkulumashiba Falls in the rains (photographed from photo) | Nkulumashiba Falls in the dry season |
GPS:
Comment: Access: take turnoff to Serenje, stop at Mr Steve's bakery and guesthouse (K100,000 pp) and ask whether you can visit his farm, 45km N of town. Proceed north out of town, go due N for 42km, turn left at the farm 'gate' (poles on the road), go for another 3km, ask for manager George at the farmhouse who will take you another 2km to the 'falls' (dammed and drained for coffee fields - not worth the effort). Camping possible.
Munyamadzi Falls, Mpika area, on Munyamadzi R. on road to Luangwa North park
Kapamba Falls on Kapamba/Munyamadzi Rs in NLNP (photo from Quentin)
Sanzye Falls on Kalambo R. upstream from Kalambo Falls (on no map)
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GPS: 08 37.216S 031 20.825E 1495m 9.7.04
Comment:
Unexpectedly scenic and big falls (guided to by Abraham of Kalambo
Falls):
15km from Musipazi turnoff 08 43.817S 031 25.968S 1639m
past Musipazi and Chilipula Schools, up to Mpunga Village, park car, then c. 2km walk to top of falls + another km or so to bottom
Namundele Falls on Mansha R. near Shiwa Ngandu (photo from Quentin)
Mapopa Falls on Mapopa R. near Kundalila Falls (Quentin says there are caves) 1/2 hr drive from Kundalila, 1/2 walk (ask Falls caretaker)
Eastern Province
Chisanga Falls on Nyika Plateau/Malawi border
GPS:
Direction: Zambian part of the Nyika Plateau, NE from N road out of park (down the escarpment to Zambia/Muyombe) - the falls used to be well signposted (don't know if they're still)
Description:
easily reached from Zambian guesthouse (closed since 1999)
Comment: pleasant hike
Kapamba Falls on Kapamba/Munyamadzi Rs in NLNP (photo from Quentin)
Central Province
Changwena Falls 40km N of Mkushi on Changwena R.
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| Drawing by Quentin Allen | Photo: Quentin Allen |
GPS:
Direction: from Mkushi
turn right 0.7km beyond the filling station, cross a small river, take the next
left through the market. After another 14km turn right, enter the National
Forest after a further 12km, bear right after another 7km and reach the
Changwena after another 4km (cf Pete Leonard, pers. comm.)
Description: scenic little set of falls within
miombo woodland
Comment: the North Swaka Forest area good
for birding, camping possible (there is a basic campsite), 3hr walk to Fort
Elwes or Mt Mumpu
Mkushi River Falls on Mkushi R.near Chalata Village (by old hotel, walk by bridge then along the path (cf Quentin) - photo
Milombwe Falls on Changwena R. (downstream from Changwena Falls)
Mulungushi Falls on Mulungushi R. downstream from Dam, c. 80km E of Kabwe (drive to dam, then walk c. 1km) (seen from air at approx 14 48.15S 29 18.99E)
Lunsemfwa Gorge falls (N of Luangwa Bridge in 'short gorge' - cf Paul Golson) access by boat, then hiking (done commercially from Rolf Shenton's Bridge Camp)
Lunsemfwa River
Tributary falls
(no names known)
1. on Lukusashi R. c. 30km N of Lunsemfwa-Lukusashi confluence, and S of East
Three airfield
2. on Mwomboshi R. c. 5km from Mulungushi--Mwomboshi confluence; access only
from the S (Chamuka village)
Chongwe Falls near confluence of Chongwe & Zambezi Rs (rainy season only)
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| Photo: Quentin Allen | Drawing by Quentin Allen |
Luapula Province
Chipili Falls on Lufubu R. 31km N of Mansa (Chipili village has huge church, cf Quentin)
Mwasha Falls on ? R. near Tundulu Village, S of Mweru Wantipa
Mumbotuta Falls on Luapula R. on Congo border c. 25km NW of bridge, then turn left, then c. 30km on the D100 to Kabunda/Kapalala villages, then W c. 3km walk
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| Road clearing to get to falls (Photos: Adrian Rowland) | Mumbotuta in the distance |
Northwestern Province
Nyambwezu Falls on Chifubwa R. 204km W of Solwezi, turn left for 15km, turn right for c. 5km (rock engravings nearby, cf Nat Monuments 1983, p.75)
Mutanda Falls on Mutanda R. +20km S of Solwezi (sign for resthouse + Mutanda Falls), turn left at bridge
Luamisamba Falls, 204km W of Solwezi, turn left for c. 10km, then ask directions for c. 1 1/2 hrs walking
Luakela Falls on Luakela R. c. 20km N of Mwinilunga on road to Kalene Hill, 2 falls:
1. Honeymoon Falls 2. Horseshoe Falls
Ngombe Falls on Ngombe R. at Ngombe Christian Training Centre, hydro-power scheme, 10km E of Mwinilunga turn S (photo)
Kabompo Gorge falls (N of Kabompo, falls running in rainy season only)
West Lunga Falls on Lunga R. near Mwinilunga
Meheba Falls on Meheba R. near Shilunda
Chavuma Falls on Zambezi R. near Chavuma
NEW 'unnamed' waterfall
on East Lumwana-Mumbezhi R confluence near Solwezi (announced on Apr 12, 2004,
by ZNTB Flash Mag.)
Western Province
Sioma and Ngonye Falls 16 39.509S 023 34.062E 999m (Western Prov)
Ngambwe Falls (N of Sesheke) - found on Michelin Southern Africa map
Southern Province
Ibbwe Munyama Falls in the escarpment hills between Kafue and Chirundu. (sketch)
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| Drawings by Quentin Allen |
Machenje Falls on Machenje R. near L'stone
Chinkwazi Falls on Kalomo R. Gorge near Munali Village, 60km NE of L'stone + 5hr walk
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| Photos: Quentin Allen |
GPS 17deg 46.519S 026deg 12.733E
The best route in is to drive (4wd) to Munali Village and then a hike from there very circuitously around the many steep hills and gulleys - allow one day) at: 17deg 42.909S 026deg 08.198
But this village is one of those 'area' villages with small collections of huts sometime a few kilometers apart, so it was necessary for us to drive from settlement to settlement (all part of to so-called Munali Village) until we got to the allegedly nearest point (co-ords above).
Then some local knowledge needed to walk you around rather than over/thro all the hills and gulleys. Don't follow your GPS direct route for the walk, or you will be in for some hard, time consuming hiking & climbing. Also, I understand because there was some talk of old land mines........
Chinkwazi Falls is a 'height of rains' visit, to see it in
full glory. A hard climb down into the Kalomo Gorge and very limited space to
camp down there (major rocks). Back track and use the tributary stream gulleys
to get down into the main Kalomo Gorge and down to the river. There is a lovely
little beach at the foot of the falls and this is ideal for a camp - as long as
you are aware that the river surges overnight and rises to inundate the beach,
or most of it, within a very short time! (Some night-time camp relocation for
us, to avoid a free moonlit river trip to the Batoka Gorge).
Safety - the gorge is steep sided and the rocks and stones and vegetation are
very loose - rock falls from hikers ahead of you are inevitable, so plan and
climb accordingly. The rocks there are very big, heavy, sharp and hard. Ask my
knees. (cf Steve Robinson)
Mahumba Falls on Mahumba
R. (near Dam) on Chisaboyo Farm (part of Gamambwe Ranches/Zambeef) 16km NE of
Choma, sign 'Gamamwe Ranches', turn right for 12km, right on major farm road, go
for 3km till section manager's house, turn left at house for 3km (road narrows),
turn 2nd right, pass farm dam, go to ridge whence falls are visible
(info Rob, Quentin's neighbour - photo promised)
BIG Zambezi River Falls:
Mosi-oa-Tunya Falls a.k.a. Victoria Falls
Moemba Falls S. Prov. near L. Kariba (day 4 of rafting trip)
Sanyombo Falls (in the Gorges near ???) Quentin says there are lots more Gorge-falls in the rainy season
Songwe Falls on Songwe R. c 100m up from Songwe Gorge (steep climb)
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| Drawing by Quentin Allen | Photo: Quentin Allen |
? Falls a.k.a. Rapid 9 near Songwe Gorge (look for photo)
Ciyababi Falls on Chiyababi R. (near Candelabra Pools?), a gorge near main Zambezi R. (photo)
for other Livingstone area falls: cf Desmond Clark 'Vic Falls'
CAN ANYONE THINK OF OTHER FALLS? IF YES, PLEASE CONTACT IMWANZA@ZAMTEL.ZM